Brand: Metolius
Model: Ultralight Asymmetrical curve nut, (1-10)
Category: Passive Protection
Class: Asymmetrical-ish
Beautiful and frankly expensive, the Metolius Ultralight Asymmetrical Curve Nut is a mouthful to say and has a price tag hard to swallow, BUT! it is absolutely one of the best nuts on the market. Impressively adapted to the imperfections and subtle flares that so often make a placement less than ideal, the Asym. is better than all the more popular class favorites.
Specs
The Metolius Ultralight Asymmetric Curve Nut is made of aluminum alloy. The cable is swaged to the head of the nut. Strength ratings are (1-5) 7kn, (6-10) 10kn. There is a subtly flaring curve along the broad axis and a nearly parallel curve along the narrow axis. The vertical axis has a long, straight taper and sizes 6-10 have an oval shaped cavity hollowed out from one side. (This is distinguish able from the older parallel version which has two stacked holes which bore all the say through.) The set 1-10 weighs 331g.
Performance
The wire of the Asym. terminates in the head of the nut instead of threading through it. This is similar in some respect to a soldered micro nut, but unlike most micro nuts, the Asym. wire is robust and notably resistant to kinking. Appreciate that any wire will show wear if it’s whipped on repeatedly or cleaned with aggressive force, but the Asym. will last most free climbers a lifetime. Eliminating the heavy traditional swage provides aesthetic appeal and helps to shave grams making the Asym. lighter than others. The Asym. 1-8 (191g) is comparable in range to the popular BD Stopper set 5-11 (254g). In case you’re counting, Metolius has squeezed in an extra piece, offering dense overlap between sizes and still coming in 63g lighter. This is very little weight to fuss over, but a detail to appreciate. Consider that size 1 is the smallest in the Asym. range, but if you must, the Metolius Astro Nut 6, 7, 8 (6kn) will expand your range to match the BD Stopper 3(5kn) and 4(6kn) adding yet another spare nut to your rack. Find a separate review of the Astro Nut (Free) here.
Photo caption: The fixed cable eliminates the opportunity to use the Asym. over a hanger-less bolt or rivet; something that comes up rarely, if at all, and is addressed better with a rivet hanger.
The horizontal curve seats aggressively—crucial for placements with highly textured or crummy rock, and still perfectly effective in smooth rock. For the same reason, the Asym. can be sticky. This is not a negative aspect, but a trade: cleaning efficiency lost, placement versatility gained. Regardless, the stickiness is easy enough to get used to and improves as the edges and corners wear. (For reference, it’s about as sticky as the DMM Offset which is known to get stuck.) It’s worth taking note to set your placements gently, or else your second will be frustrated cleaning. Also, for budding aid climbers, stop bounce testing every nut you place.
The narrow placement orientations flares for uneven cracks, a feature which has grown to become a requirement for many climbers. In fact, the Ultralight Asymmetric Curved Nut completely replaced Metolius’ own parallel version, the “Ultralight Curved Nut.” However, don’t mistake the Asym. for a pinscar hero like DMM Aluminum Offset or the BD Offset Stopper. The broad axis flare is subtle, with the curve making the angle a bit ambiguous. The narrow axis flare is pretty damn close to parallel, if it’s flared at all. Honestly, it works. Consider the Asym. to be a more adaptive classic nut, which fits the offset category too rather than the other way around. Better contact than a parallel nut half way there on a pinscar nut. This puts the Asym. in a similar category to the Wild Country Superlight Offset Rock or the DMM Halfnut, but with denser coverage. The versatility is invaluable.
The Asym. is not apparently popular and it’s easy to guess a reason. At $149.95 the set of ten is a steep next to a classic like the Black Diamond Stopper $119.95. Perhaps the practical temptation to go with a well loved and less expensive option is simply to much for climbers contemplating the purchase of their first rack. It’s hard to throw down the extra money for a fancy nut when a basic nut works well, but if you’re willing, the Asym. will serve you better. With dense range, broad adaptability, and killer looks, the Metolius Ultralight Asymmetric Curve Nut is worth it.
More addaptive than both Classic parallel class and the Specialty Pinscar Class. It’s shares a similar personality to the Superlights or Halfnuts, but with denser coverage. It’s got its own spot in between. If you place a lot of nuts. If you don’t carry a ton of cams.
Gear Review: DMM Brass Offset - The Very Best
Brand: DMM
Model: Brass Offset (0-6)
Class: Micro, Asymmetrical
Thin pitons leave behind thin scars; nasty, flaring, and supremely difficult to protect with out a hammer. Cams walk, parallel nuts wont seat, aluminum offsets wont fit: Enter the DMM Brass Offset—for flares and pin scars, there is no equal.
Specs
The DMM Brass Offset is made of a silicone brass alloy and soldered to its cable. Strength ratings are (0) 2kn, (1) 4kn, (2, 3) 5kn, (4, 5) 7kn, (6) 10kn. It is aggressively flared along the broad axis and the short axis. The vertical axis has a steep taper with flat sides; the two largest pieces have a cavity in their forward and rear faces. The set weighs 85g.
Performance
The silicone brass is noticeably stickier than aluminum and even stickier than the iron or bronze alloys used in other micro nuts, but only just. The margin is nearly imperceivable, but it does make a difference on heinous aid routes with the most suspect of placements. Soldering is strong, but more likely than threaded nuts to kink and eventually fray. Be careful when cleaning and they’ll last longer. The standard orientation is aggressively flared and so is the horizontal orientation. This design creates fourteen aggressively flaring placement options across the seven nut series; a trait especially adept to pin scars. If you like the popular DMM Aluminum Offset, the DMM Brass Offset is a good compliment. Size 7, the smallest Aluminum Offset, falls in perfect step, slightly overlapping the size 6 Brass Offset. Sizes 0 (2kn) and 1 (4kn) are aid only. Sizes 2(5kn) and 3(5kn) are limited, but can withstand small falls. Sizes 4, 5 (7kn), and 6 (10kn) are great free nuts, but beware of repeated falls or abuse. For any soldered nut, there is a tendency to kink. Take care when cleaning and watch carefully for fraying cables.
A bad ass, minimalist nut rack for free climbing: DMM Brass Offset 4, 5 (7kn), 6 (10kn) with DMM Aluminum Offset 7, 8, 9 (12kn).
The DMM Brass Offset is specialized but often preferd to Climbers who have abandoned their standard parallel nuts to carry just the Aluminum Offset will appreciate the Brass Offset as its obvious and natural partner. Pick up the 4, 5, and 6 for an expensive, but badass addition to your free rack; the 2 and 3 are better than nothing when you’re runout and spooked; the smallest two are good aid pieces, but well substituted by hand placed beaks.
