Part 1
Top Roping
Let’s talk about the comprehensive ‘why’ to Commands and Double Checks for Toproping. I’m going to lay out several scripts and the processes that go with them.
If you’ve climbing at a gym before, you might know the scrip already.
The climber asks, “On Belay?”
The belayer responds, “Belay On.”
The climber says, “Climbing.”
The belayer responds, “Climb On.”
This is not just a simple call and response, but the initiation of a system of double checks: The climber checks their harness, point of connection, and knot; the rope itself; then verifies their partners belay device, point of connection, and harness. Moving from one end of the system to the other will make it less likely that you skip a step. When the climber is satisfied they may ask, “On Belay?” The belayer inspects the same system in the reverse order, ensures control of the break strand and responds, “Belay On!” Once the system has been checked the team confirms their readiness to begin the climb: The climber asks, “Climbing?” and the belayer confirms once again, “Climb On.” The belayer has now committed to maintain control of the break strand and the climber may begin the route. This entire process should occur ritually to avoid mistakes.
Double Checks - Before the Climb
Start at one end of the system and travel to the other.
Climber Harness, Fitted and Buckled
Climber Connection, Through Both Contact Points
Climber Knot, Tied and Dressed
The Rope, set up properly
Belayer Belay Device, Oriented Correctly
Belayer Connection, Carabiner Locked, On Belay Loop
Belayer Harness, Fitted and Buckled
Commands - Before the Climb (Formal)
Climber: On Belay - Am I on belay?
(Double Checks)
Belayer: Belay On - Yes, I have your belay.
C: Climbing? - May I climb now?
B: Climb On - Yes, I’m paying attention.
Commands - Before the Climb (Abbreviated)
The ritual often gets abbreviated, but as long as the double checks are practiced you’re doing well.
C: On Belay?
(Double Checks)
B: Yeah, Climb On
C: Person On Rock
(Double Checks)
B: Rock On, Person!
C: Good?
(Double Checks)
B: [Smokey Wink] Good.
To rest or at the top of the route, the climber may call, “Take,” to have the belayer remove slack and transfer the climbers weight to the rope. The belayer calls back, “Got You,” and the climber lets go of the wall to fully weight the system. The climber calls, “Lower,” to announce they’re ready to come down and the belayer responds, “Lowering,” and slowly feeds rope into the system to lower them to the ground.
Commands - Taking Weight, Lowering
C: Take - Hold me tight with the rope, or remove unnecessary slack out of the system.
B: Got You - I have you tight on the rope.
C: Lower - I’m ready to be lowered.
B: Lowering - (This one is kinda self explanatory)
Commands - The Break up
Once you have concluded the climb and are safely on the ground, formal communication would have you clarify, “Off Belay,” and, “Belay Off.”
C: Off Belay - I no longer require your belay.
B: Belay Off - I’m out of the system, you’re on your own.
Climbing commands and double checks are easy — You’ve got this. Rely on more formal communication if you’re new to the game or new to your partner. Use simple tones to keep messages clear; offer verbal confirmation to close loops; patternize your double checks to build consistency. Building these habits will help you identify mistakes, prevent miscommunication, and avert mishaps.
( Make this the multi pitch intro )Nothing screams, “I’M A GUMBY!” more than a climber mid route, shouting a list of incomprehensible and overly complicated nonsense to their belayer on the ground. It’s an easy recipe for frustration and potential injury, but there’s an antidote: simple communication.
Look good, have fun, climb safe.
( new Sport Climbing intro )At the local climbing gym under a huge overhanging prow of plastic glory jugs, there are two heel shaped rips in the mats below. Years prior, an experienced climber, decking from the anchors above, walked away rattled, but otherwise unharmed, and he’s not the only one.
