Strong Opinions: Risk Management - Always Use a Third Hand... Right?

— The light is fading and the wind is picking up. We have nineteen pitches to descend in front of us and the temperature is dropping. Lightning cracks and the thunder rolls. A moment ago we transcended, topping out on our season dream. Now, we go down. — 

Rappelling carries inherent risk. Every year, accidents and fatalities remind us that the line we walk is thin. So we build standards of practice to manage the risk: Always double check your system, always tie knots in the end of your rope, and sometimes use a third hand backup—wait no, always use a backup... right?

A less experienced team might be naturally cautious and adhere to conservative standards. As climbers develop the skill and experience to manage the danger more knowingly, their comfort zone will naturally expand. An experienced team should be able to make precise, decisions about their own safety and the risks they take. With rappel hazards like wet ropes, cold hands, heavy loads, etc., any experienced team would recognize the danger and deploy a third hand to improve their margins. But accidents happen to experienced climbers, so what gives?

The big monster under the bed is a creeping combination of complacency and fatigue. The more you climb the more you get comfortable, and comfort may not be a reliable mechanism to keep you safe. Mistakes happen—to everyone. There’s a clock and it’s ticking. (Lines, monsters, clocks; is that enough metaphors?) This is good reason to set and commit to standards of practice in our climbing. Our rational brains can make decisions, that are more likely to lead to our success than decisions made by our irrational brains under stress. If we tie ourselves to the mast, we are less likely to succumb to the siren song. (It’s called the Ulysses Contract, it’s a whole thing.)

So, the question comes again: should you ALWAYS use a back up on rappel? Sure.

Frankly, I rappel occasionally without and I don’t have room judge or energy to chastise experienced climbers who knowingly shave their margins. But yes, of course use a back up. There’s good merit in adhering to standards and building good habits and I can’t think of an honest reason not to. Regardless, rappelling remains one of the most dangerous elements of climbing. Please do it with care.