Gear Review: Black Diamond Offset Micro Stopper - A Good Favorite
*the Offset Micro has been discontinued*
Brand: Black Diamond
Model: Offset Micro Stopper (1-6)
Class: Micro, Asymmetrical
The Black Diamond Offset Micro Stopper is a specialized nut used primarily for aid climbing, but the largest three are rated to take falls, and I’ve been free climbing on them.
Belonging to a ‘Micro’ class of protection designed for thin aid the Offset Micro Stopper includes six sizes: 1(2kn), 2(3kn), 3(5kn), 4(6kn), 5(6kn), 6(8kn). It has a flare along the broad axis and a flare along the short axis. It has a taper along the vertical axis with a shallow depression in its face. It is made from a copper/iron alloy, with it’s head soldered directly to the cable. A set weighs 115g.
Aid
The Offset Micro, has the a moderate flare for thin piton scars and naturally flaring cracks. The slight depression improves contact with the rock. The copper/iron alloy, is softer than aluminum so that it may deform and create better friction. It’s also harder than brass, which makes it easier to clean, but less sticky. The difference is subtle, but it does give brass a small advantage in poor, body weight only placements. I don’t like super scary aid so, I prefer the cleaning advantage of the copper/iron alloy for most aid routes, but again, the difference is subtle. The Micro will get stuck easily also if you’re not careful. Size 1(2kn) and 2(3kn) are body weight only.
Black Diamond Offset Micros 4(6kn), 5(6kn), 6(8kn).
Free
Size 3(5kn) is strong enough for a small fall, but spooky. Sizes 4(6kn), 5(6kn), and 6(8kn) have a little bit more surface area, thicker cables and fall ratings to inspire better confidence. With any micro protection, the quality of the rock and security of the placement become acutely important. If you’re careful to place it well, you could certainly include the number three in your free rack; just know it’s limitations. Thin protection can break up otherwise dangerous runnouts, or improve mediocre anchors. When there aren’t other options, these things find a way.
Size Intervals
According to black Black Diamond, the Micro Offset steps seamlessly into the sizes of the larger aluminum Offset Stopper, sizes 7-11, but it doesn’t. There’s actually a half sized gap, which is regrettable, but the Micro Offset does just so happen to step perfectly into the Wild Country Superlight Rocks. In its narrow placement orientation, the number 6 Offset Micro is slightly smaller than the number 3 Superlight. The Superlight also comes in sizes 1 and 2, but both are rated for 4kn, which makes the 4, 5, and 6 Offset Micro more valuable for free climbing.
Black Diamond Offset Micros, 4, 5, 6 (left) Wild Country Superlights 3, 4 (right).
With two flared placement orientations the Offset Micro is specialized for shallow pin scars and flares. It is perhaps a poor candidate for beginner climbers, but borrowed from the aid rack, it will stretch your free climbing protection range into the ultra-thin. If you start, you wont stop.
