Tutorial: LSD - A Better Way to Lower
Using an ATC Guide or Petzl Reverso to belay is simple enough, but defeating the progress capture or autoblocking mechanism can prove to be a process. Anyone who has used the classic method of flipping the device to defeat the autoblock, knows that it feels unstable and requires a lot of leverage. Instead, here are three cleaner, quicker methods for defeating autoblock mode, including a highlight of the newest trick, the LSD (Load Strand Direct).
Note: If climbing on two ropes as a party of three, you must tie off your third before defeating the device.
Slack (Low Tension)
It’s quick to feed slack without properly defeating the autoblock if the load strand is under only partial tension or can be unweighted.
Tie a backup knot low on the break strand
Push back on the belay carabiner or flip the device by hand (Disengages Autoblock)
Simultaneously, pull down on the load strand to feed slack
Let go of the belay carabiner to reengage the autoblock and return to the break strand to belay.
Lower LSD (Unweighted)
Defeating the autoblock in order to lower a climber is quick when it is possible for the climber to briefly unweight the load strand.
Set up, and dress a prusik on the break strand and clip it to your belay loop.
Clip a carabiner to anchor (at or above device)
Have follower unweight rope
Clip load strand to carabiner (Disengages Autoblock)
Lower
Have the follower unweight the rope, then unclip the load strand from the redirect carabiner to reengage autoblock.
Lower LSD (Weighted)
Defeating the autoblock in order to lower a climber requires more leverage when it is not possible for the climber to unweight the load strand.
Set up, dress, and move prusik up on break strand
Clip carabiner to load strand with double length sling
Redirect sling above device and clip to belay loop
Weight sling to redirect load strand (Disengages Autoblock)
Lower
Stand up to unweight the redirect sling and reengage the autoblock.
The LSD is in and all the cool kids are doing it. Learn it, know it, love it. It’s the new standard. Lowering incorrectly from a loaded device is a common cause of accidents. Practice these techniques on the ground in a controlled environment. Keep in mind, a prusik will behave differently with changes in diameter and stiffness, how well it’s dressed, and the hitch you have tied. A backup knot is required if you’re unfamiliar with how your specific rope and prusik behave together.
